Guide · Lip

How to launch lip products
without a private mould:
stock components, decoration and QC.

Colour cosmetics is where a private mould is most tempting and least often justified on a first order. A lipstick alone is five moulded parts; a private tool for each costs thousands of dollars and three months. Stock mechanisms, tubes and shells already exist at partner factories in every standard size. Here is how to put a lip range on shelf using them — with the numbers, the decoration that carries the brand, and the tests that keep it working.

By the Vella sourcing team · Updated September 2026 · 8-min read

Short answer

Buy the mechanism, tube and shell from stock (public) moulds and put the brand into decoration, colour and the carton. Working floors: a custom-decorated stock gloss tube from ~1,000, decorated shells ~2,000, moulded-in colour ~3,000, sprayed colour 2,000–5,000 per shape, electroplating ~10,000. Stock parts with decoration ship in 30–45 days at factory gate. A private mould costs RMB 25,000–70,000 (≈USD 3,500–9,700) per component tool, is paid 30/40/30, takes 90–120 days and needs 3,000–10,000 pieces to amortise — justified only for a hero shape decoration cannot deliver.

Stock mould or private mould: the table that decides it

A stock, or public, mould belongs to the factory; your design lives in the decoration. A private mould belongs to you and costs steel, time and a minimum run. The numbers below are indicative partner-factory practice; the underlying tooling figures are on the mould cost and ownership reference.

QuestionStock (public) mould + decorationPrivate mould
Tooling costNone. Screen or hot-stamp plate only; spray colour-matching per shapeRMB 25,000–70,000 (≈USD 3,500–9,700) per component tool; worked mid-size tool ≈RMB 76,500 (≈USD 10,600)
PaymentOrder deposit and balance only30/40/30: 30% on signing, 40% after DFM and mould-flow sign-off, 30% within a week of acceptance
Lead time, factory gateStock 7–25 days; +5–7 print or hot stamp; sprayed 30–40; stock mechanism with decoration 30–45 daysTool 45–60 days; custom mechanism 80–90 days; full programme 90–120 days including the 48°C / 30-day compatibility test
Working minimumGloss tube from ~1,000; shells ~2,000; moulded-in colour ~3,000; sprayed 2,000–5,000 per shape; plated ~10,0003,000–10,000 pieces to amortise the tool; custom lipstick shapes from ~3,000 plus tooling
Ownership and lifeFactory owns the public mouldBrand owns the mould; factory holds it in custody for the brand's orders only; rated ~800,000 cycles
Choose it whenFirst launch; a range of shades on one shell; volume under ~10,000 per component; date fixedA hero product with a proprietary shape and volume that amortises the tool inside 12–18 months

Ask for the tool and the unit price on separate lines, and ask who owns the tool.

The stock components, format by format

Every format below exists in standard sizes at partner factories with no tooling; specification detail is on lip packaging.

FormatStock optionsKey dimensions to fixWorking minimum (decorated)
Lipstick mechanism (twist-up)Stock mechanisms for 3.5–4.5 g bullets; cap in aluminium, ABS, PMMA or PETG; magnetic caps as a stock optionCup ID 8.5 / 8.6 / 9 / 9.8 / 10 / 11 / 11.8 / 12 mm; 4, 6 or 8 ribs; bottom- or top-fill~2,000 shells with print or hot stamp
Lip gloss tube + wandTubes in PP, PETG or AS, 3.5–15 ml (4.5 ml typical); doe-foot, flat, plumping, cushion or brush applicatorsWiper bore to the wand stem; cap stays closed under 1 kg compression~1,000 custom-decorated; ~3,000 moulded-in colour
Click / mechanical pencil (crayon, liner)Stock cartridges in standard diameters; brush or sharpener capAdvance per press; cartridge retention; cap retention under 1 kgStandard diameters; custom only for hero products
Lip balm tube / tint potOval or round PP twist tubes 4–5 g (typical partner-factory range); pots 5–15 ml in PP, glass or aluminium, Ø33–Ø38Disc liner on pots; twist torque on tubesLow thousands on stock shapes; PCR-PP and aluminium shells available

Where the brand goes: decoration on a stock shell

With the shape fixed, the brand is carried by the finish on the shell, the printed mark, the colour of one component, and the carton. Printing is cheap, colour is expensive, and metal is expensive and immovable.

  • Screen print and hot stamp — ~1,000–2,000 from the decorating line; ≤2 passes per part. The lowest-MOQ way to own a stock shell.
  • Sprayed colour — 2,000–5,000 per component shape; spend it on the cap and keep the base stock.
  • Moulded-in colour — ~3,000 on a gloss tube via partner lines, 5,000–10,000 industry floor.
  • Anodised aluminium — batch-based; keep a control sample.
  • Electroplating — ~10,000 and it does not move; leave it for a hero SKU, or reach a metallic look with vacuum metallising.
  • The carton — often the strongest brand surface and among the cheapest to make bespoke.

The process-by-process comparison with set-up costs is in which lipstick decoration forces a high MOQ, and the parameters on the decoration process reference.

The calendar for a stock-only launch

Stock mechanisms and tubes are 7–25 days; print or hot stamp adds 5–7; sprayed colour is 30–40 days after sample approval; the decorated set comes together at about 30–45 days factory gate. Multiply by 1.3 for buffer, add 15 days across Chinese New Year (6 February 2027), then add freight: 18–25 days by sea to the US West Coast, 30–35 to Northern Europe, 3–7 days by air. A private-mould programme is 90–120 days before any of that. The ten nodes are on the production calendar; category cycles on the lead-time index.

QC: what a stock-part launch is signed against

Stock does not mean unchecked. Production starts only after both sides sign a physical golden sample, and every inspection report is signed against these thresholds.

TestMethodPass threshold
Lipstick mechanismFull up–down cycle with bullet after a 45°C hold; torque meter; pull testerRotation torque 0.1–0.5 N·m; no wobble or dead travel; cap opening 0.2–2 kgf; core pull-out ≥4 kgf; cup ID to drawing
Gloss cap torque and securityTorque meter; 1 kg bag compression; 50 open/close cyclesOpening torque 0.2–0.7 N·m; no product on the thread; wand returns without dripping
Decoration adhesion3M 600 over print and hot stamp; 3M 810 over 2 mm cross-hatch on spray, metallising and platingNo lift; hot-stamp loss ≤0.5 mm²; cross-hatch grade 1 or better; pencil hardness ≥2H sprayed
Colour fastness on the mechanism24 h soak in the actual formulaNo transfer to formula or hands; no lifting
Formula compatibilityCup, wiper, wand and tube with your actual bulk, 48°C for 30 days plus ambient and cold controlsNo discolouration, swelling, odour or dose drift
Thermal cycling48°C and −15°C, 24–48 h each, filledNo cracking, warping, leakage or colour change after 2 h recovery
DropFilled, onto concreteSticks 76 cm × 3; bottles with closure 1.5 m at 45°
ColourAgainst the signed golden sample, D65 lightΔE within the tolerance agreed per material; shell, cap and carton judged side by side

The full published battery, including the four inspection gates, is on the QC standards page. For the mechanism decision in detail read lipstick mechanism: click vs twist; for gloss minimums lip gloss tube and wand MOQ from China. The makeup category as a complete system — lipstick, gloss, compacts, foundation — is on the makeup packaging solution, the launch view for a first brand on indie brand launch, and the questions to ask a supplier before any of it on how to evaluate a China packaging supplier.

Where Vella fits

Vella is a Guangzhou-based beauty packaging solutions provider — a sourcing partner, not a factory. We route stock mechanisms, tubes, applicators and cartons to vetted partner factories operating to ISO 22716 / GMP, quote the minimum per part, run the decoration where the line is already set up for it, and sign every order against the thresholds above. Range detail: lip packaging.

Common questions

Can I launch a lipstick or lip gloss without a private mould?
Yes, and for a first launch you should. Stock (public-mould) lipstick mechanisms in every standard cup size, gloss tubes from 3.5–15 ml, click cartridges and balm tubes already exist at partner factories with no tooling. The brand goes into decoration, one component's colour and the carton. Working floors start around 1,000 for a custom-decorated gloss tube and 2,000 for decorated shells, shipping in about 30–45 days at factory gate.
How much does a private mould for lip packaging cost?
About RMB 25,000–70,000 (approximately USD 3,500–9,700) per component tool, with a worked mid-size single-component tool at around RMB 76,500 (approximately USD 10,600). A lipstick is cap, base, cup, fork and spiral — five tools. Payment is 30/40/30, the mould is rated for about 800,000 cycles and is owned by the brand, and the programme runs 90–120 days from brief to first delivery. It needs 3,000–10,000 pieces per component to amortise.
What MOQ can I expect on stock lip packaging with my own branding?
A custom-decorated stock gloss tube from about 1,000 pieces; decorated lipstick shells around 2,000; moulded-in custom colour around 3,000 via partner lines against a 5,000–10,000 industry floor; sprayed custom colour 2,000–5,000 per component shape; electroplated parts around 10,000. Minimums apply per part, so the applicator, wiper and carton each carry their own.
How long does a stock-component lip launch take?
About 30–45 days at factory gate for a stock mechanism or tube with decoration, once the golden sample is approved. Stock parts alone are 7–25 days, print or hot stamp adds 5–7, sprayed colour is 30–40 days after sample approval. Multiply by 1.3 for buffer, add 15 days across Chinese New Year, then 18–35 days sea freight or 3–7 days air. A private-mould programme is 90–120 days before any of that.
What should be tested on stock lip packaging before production?
The mechanism through a full cycle with your bullet after a 45°C hold, with rotation torque 0.1–0.5 N·m, cap opening 0.2–2 kgf and core pull-out at least 4 kgf; gloss cap opening torque 0.2–0.7 N·m and closure under 1 kg compression; decoration with 3M 600 and 3M 810 tape; a 24-hour soak of the mechanism in the formula; a 48°C / 30-day compatibility test of every contact part with your actual bulk; 48°C / −15°C cycling; a 76 cm drop for sticks; and colour against the signed golden sample under D65 light.
Launch on Stock

Building a lip range without cutting steel?
Start from the parts that already exist.

Send the formats, the shade count and your year-one volume. We reply within 24 hours with stock mechanisms and tubes that fit, the decoration your quantity supports and the test plan we sign against.

Send a brief →